What at first seemed like 4 weeks of endless opportunities is getting
towards and end. In a few days we will be touching the east coast,
hopefully have a couple of days left over to relax without any
driving before the flight back home.
Day 15
New states, new
opportunities. We left New Orleans on a lovely Sunday morning with
the sun shining from blue skies. After an hour we arrived at Honey
Island Swamp Tours, and spent the next two hours photographing and
watching dragonflies, alligators, owls, heron, ibis, turtles and
snakes in the swamps. The guide was really great!
After lunch we drove
north to Memphis, a rather uneventful drive with trees blocking any
potential view from the road for most of the way. Tomorrow we have a
date with Elvis! (well, not really, but I guess we'll see a bit of
him anyway).
Day 16
Elvis wasn't at
home, and Graceland not that interesting from the outside. So we went
up north of the city to see the Underground Railroad Museum. It was a
lot smaller than I expected, but very interesting, even if the tour
guide could use some more training. I learned a lot about the slave
trade and the slaves' means of communicating and escaping.
We drove to the city
centre for lunch, and walked down Beale Street, where we had
milkshake and nachos. We also walked down to see the Mississippi
river, before taking off further inland towards Nashville. In
Nashville we had dinner at a very nice brew-pub, the food was really
good if not quite authentic (we had shepherd's pie). When we arrived
at the motel it appeared I had booked for the wrong days, but we were
lucky and got the last room they had available.
We've been quite
lucky with most of our motels so far, only one night with a bad
squeaky bed, else we have had mostly spacious rooms with comfortable
beds.
Day 17 Nashville
Nashville started
with pancakes for breakfast at IHOP (International House of Pancakes)
before we went to see The Hermitage, general Andrew Jacksons
plantation. The plantation tour was very interesting and informative,
and we learned a lot about both general Jackson and his life, and
also about plantation life and politics and the beginning of the
United States.
We were not very
hungry yet at lunchtime, so we dropped by a Walmart to buy water and
some light lunch and headed back to the motel for some rest. In the
evening we went down to Nashville city centre, and walked along
Broadway, visiting a huge candy shop, and passing loads of bars with
live music. Unfortunately the famous Bluebird café was fully booked
for tonight.
Day 18 – 19 The Appalachians
From Nashville we
drove east, into the Appalachian mountains, to visit a friend of
Tollef. He lives in a house far up in the mountains away from
everything else, without water and only solar power for electricity.
We had a nice dinner, and sat outside listening to all the forest
sounds and looked at the stars after dark. Before bedtime I also got
to learn a new board game, a Carcassonne variety called Discovery. It
is getting colder as we get further north, and the evening was quite
chilly. I hope it will not get too cold as we get to Chicago and
Detroit.
In the morning, we
went to a nearby place and had biscuits for lunch. On the way back,
our host had recommended a hike from the road and back to his place,
«probably a mile or two, maybe a bit more». «A bit more» was a
severe understatement. We walked about 5 km (3 miles) over several
steep hills, a total of 340 metres elevation. Also, there was no
marked track and we didn't have a map, only a gps with the general
direction. We walked through a lot of growth with thorny bushes, so
that my arms and legs got all scratched up. I was quite exhausted
when we finally found the cabin, and had some rest before we left for
Lexington.
Day 20 - Kentucky Horse Park
I thought we had
more then enough time, arriving at Kentucky Horse Park only two hours
after opening time. Well, we left ten minutes before closing time.
They have an interesting program, and it is a large area to walk
about. We came just in time for the first breed presentation, with
five different horses being presented in an arena, working out to
music. After the presentation we got to meet the riders and horses
close-up, which was really nice. We walked through the «breed barn»
and saw and read about the other breeds represented there.
Unfortunately there were few European breeds at all, and the
Icelandic horse apparently did not come in from the field today.
We also saw the «big
barn» where the draft horses lived, and later got a short trolley
tour in a large trolley pulled by two Belgian draft horses. We
visited the Hall of Champions that has a handful of retired race
horses that has done really well, and there was also a barn for
police horses, mostly mixes of draft horses and some lighter breed.
At the end of our
visit we saw both the American Saddlebred Museum, and the Museum of
the Horse. The first one was a bit confusing and, of course, only
focused on the American Saddlebred horse, the general horse museum
was very good, with a special exhibit about Arabians at the end.
There was a lot of
interesting things to see, and I am sure we could have spent another
day walking around the grounds, watching the horses in the fields and
the jumping contests going on right then. In the end, it was enough
walking for a day, and we got to see and learn a lot about horses.
We were not too late
back at the hotel, so I got to try out the pool before the sun set
completely. It was chilly, but nice to have a quick evening bath.
Day 21 - Chicago!
New car, new state,
new opportunities. The car has been asking for an oil change for the
last day or so. With a rental car you just don't fix the problem
yourself, you get to the nearest office and get a new car. This car
was larger, more space for the luggage in the trunk, and better
interior, but the one we left had a more powerful engine and was far
more comfortable to drive. At least we have only one week left, and
no long stretches to go anyway.
Today was the last
long stretch, going from Lexington to north of Chicago. The drivers
seem to be more reckless the further east and north we get. The first
few days people were good on the road, traffic flowed easily about
the speed limits. From Texas, people started to drive more
aggressively. Even the trailers, that get repeated messages about no
passing and staying in the right lane, rushes past and of course
causes problems. The speeding seems to have increased the further
north we have come from Louisiana, and more cars and trailers passing
at high speed. We also see several cars that have been stopped by the
police every day. At least the drivers still are good at allowing
space for changing lanes and getting onto roads, and there's no
honking horns or flashing lights.
One week left. 24
hours and 2421 km this week. I think we're through 11 states so far.
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